As we approached the city of Jodhpur, the roads narrowed as we entered an incredibly impressive gate, leading us through a maze of streets that compose this beautiful city. My skilful driver navigated the seemingly endless parade of tuk-tuks and motorbikes as we turned down alleys and cross-roads, past the most beautiful rose-sandstone clock tower, and into the gate of my hotel.
I checked into the RAAS, where my room offered a private balcony and the best view I’ve ever experienced from a hotel (possibly topping the view in Agra of the Taj!) The scene out the window was a sea of blue houses, blending their way up to the majestic Mehrangarh Fort. It was simply incredible. I settled in, took a quick dip in the pool to cool off and enjoy the view, and headed out to the city for a special evening with a local Brahmin family.
An auto rickshaw (tuk-tuk) brought me through the maze of the old city, where I met a colourful older man named Lalit Kumar. Lalit shook my hand and brought me up his street. The noises of honking horns and roaring motors faded, as a sea of blue buildings surrounded us. I asked Lalit why Jodphur was called the blue city- he had a lovely response. Although many think they paint their houses blue to combat the fierce Marwari heat, he said the simple reason is that mosquitoes are repelled by light greens and blues, so many people choose to paint their homes in that colour. When I asked if that was his reason, he smiled and reached into his pocket to pull out a photo of Ganesh- the elephant-faced God. Kissing the photo, he said “Look at his skin. It’s blue. My home is blue to ensure he watches over my family.”
We approached his house as local children smiled at me and stopped me to take my photo. Climbing stair after stair, I was humbled and awe-stuck by how well this older man navigated the steps leading through the complex and up to his modest 3rd floor flat in the building. We removed our shoes, said a prayer at the temple in his corridor, and entered the house. He took me to his roof reck, where monkeys played and the sun set over the majestic fort above. He placed a colourful turban on my head and took my picture. I grinned from ear to ear as I took in the enchanted scenery and eased into the pleasure of his gracious hospitality. We walked downstairs and started cooking.
Lalit sat me down beside the small camp-stove in his uncovered open-air den as his wonderful wife handed me fresh vegetables and spices, instructing me step-by-step on how to add the ingredients. The hot oil flashed as these seemingly simple ingredients blended together into the most wonderfully aromatic blend of sights and smells. Per their religion, Lalit and his family don’t cook with any meat, dairy, onion, or garlic – all staples of a typical American cuisine. As the evening progressed and the aubergine browned to perfection under the low heat, I was overcome by a feeling of calm and bliss. This was real India. I wrote a note in their welcome book, thanked them for their hospitality, and headed back to the hotel.
The next morning I headed to the fort, where rose sandstone and narrow cobble-stone roads weaved their way up the hill, surrounded by defensive barracks and beautifully carved white marble. Unlike many other examples in India, the Mehrangarh Fort has been wonderfully preserved and restored, funded through entry and photography charges from tourists and locals alike. The impeccable interiors of colour-stained glass filled the rooms with light as we navigated our way up the stairs and through the fort. Over the horizon through a sea of blue lied an opulent palace mirroring the Taj in scale- the Umaid Bhawan. Half of the building had been converted into a luxury hotel, and half is still maintained as a royal residence. Quite the sight.
Later in the day I completed some additional hotel inspections, including a trip to the opulent palace. As the heat climaxed to 120 degrees F and the Marwari region began to take on its meaning (“Land of Death”) in this unusually hot summer, I headed back to the hotel for a cool night of relaxing.
After a quick check out the following morning, I jumped in the car as we traversed the cobble stones beneath, making our way south to the rural village of Narlai.
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